101 Uses for a Krama

Up before dawn again today for sunrise near the Terrace of the Elephants, a high spot Gabe and Warren discovered several days ago. It is remarkable to be alone at the temples as the sun rises and the jungle comes alive around us. We arrive in starlight, amazed at another clear morning; despite being here in the middle of the rainy season, there has been no precipitation for the past three days. In fact, there has been more sunshine than cloud cover, so we have begun to use our sunscreen.

We had a wild tuk tuk ride to the Land Mine Museum yesterday, located between the town of Siem Reap and the Angkor temples. It is run by a young - 30ish - Cambodian man who clears mines all over the country by himself and houses young victims of mines who have no place to go. He feeds them and gets them to some schooling in town. It was a sobering experience made more so because of our country's opposition to the International Convention to Ban Landmines.

Last night we attended a free concert of classical music at a local hospital. We expected a small orchestra and instead were treated to virtuoso cello pieces by Dr. Beat Richner who interspersed his performance with talk about the state of children’s health in Cambodia since the “secret” bombing during the late 60s and early 70s. A Frenchman, he has been in Cambodia since the early 1970s. An impressive voice speaking truth to power in a public forum. He does this every week. I am sure you will hear more from your kids when we return. It is part of the story about the developing world that I hope we bring back.

On our tuk tuk ride back to the guest house at 9 this morning, after a walk through Angkor Wat, Warren devised yet another use for his krama, the traditional checked scarf of Cambodia.

Two more days in Siem Reap, then we travel by boat across the Tonle Sap and up river to Battambang for the six day arts festival. Time begins to race.